Cycads – How to Grow and Care Guide

What is a Cycad?

Cycads are a unique and prehistoric plant group, having lived through multiple ice ages, and global mass extinctions. Despite all this, they are now at risk of extinction, almost entirely due to human interventions. In fact, several species of cycads are now thought to have fewer than 100 living specimens left in the wild. 

Cycads are distinctly similar to palms, with bare, fibrous trunks, and palmate foliage spreading from their tops. However, unlike palms, their fruit and seeds are bore on upright cones, with distinct and uniquely beautiful flowers.

Cycads grow at a very slow rate, regardless of species, or ultimate height, and take a long time to properly establish in a new setting.

Cycads’ Natural Habitat

Cycads predate the continents as we know them, and now remain living in most tropical and subtropical climates. However, due to over-cultivation of forest lands, and open spaces, their habitat loss means they now live in more and more remote areas and have less connected ecosystems. 

Thankfully there are many parts of Australia where it’s possible to grow healthy, happy cycads, and help to reintroduce them to our landscape, whether that’s in gardens, parks, or public spaces.

Types of Australian Cycads

There are 81 species of cycads endemic or native to Australia, falling into four genera, and two families. While Cycads are spread globally, with some genera limited to South America or South Africa, our own shores are host to dozens of unique and beautiful cycads.

Some of our native genera are more widespread, but one of two genera are entirely limited to Australia, not just as their native range, but also as their sole habitat, either in nature or cultivation, making them extremely rare plants, and worth protecting as well as admiring.

The four genera of cycads, native to Australia, grouped into their two respective families are:

• Cycadaceae
  • Cycas
• Zamiaceae
  • Macrozamia
  • Lepidozamia
  • Bowenia

Cycads in the Cycas genus (the only genus in the Cycadaceae family)

The Cycas genus is widespread, with around a hundred species spread throughout Asia and Australia, with one species found native in Madagascar. Of the thirty-six Cycas species native to Australia, the majority are Queensland natives, with just a few found in the Northern Territory or Western Australia.

While no cycads are native to southern or central parts of Australia, most can be grown in gardens with good planting conditions.

Below is a list of all 36 native Cycas species in Australia, with a note for each on its native range:

• Cycas yorkiana – native to Cape York Peninsula, Queensland, 
• Cycas xipholepis – native to Cape York Peninsula, Queensland
• Cycas tuckeri – native to Cape York Peninsula, Queensland
• Cycas terryana – native to central Queensland
• Cycas scratchleyana – native to Queensland and New Guinea
• Cycas pruinosa – native to Kimberley, Western Australia & Spirit Hills, Northern Territory
• Cycas lane-poolei – native to Kimberley, Western Australia
• Cycas furfuracea – native to Western Australia
• Cycas distans – native to Queensland (savannah)
• Cycas desolata – native to Queensland
• Cycas cupida – native to Queensland
• Cycas candida – native to Queensland
• Cycas brunnea – native to the Northern Territory, northwest Queensland, and wide spread in northern Australia
• Cycas badensis – native to Badu Island and Torres Strait Islands, northern Queensland
• Cycas arnhemica – native to Arnhem Land, Northern Territory
• Cycas platyphylla – native to Atherton Tableland, Queensland
• Cycas ophiolitica – native to Queensland
• Cycas couttsiana – native to Queensland
• Cycas angulata – native to northeastern Northern Territory, northwest Queensland, and Bountiful Islands
• Cycas conferta – native to Kakadu National Park, Northern Territory
• Cycas canalis – native to Channel Point & the Daly River, northwest Northern Territory
• Cycas orientis – native to Eastern Arnhem Land, Northern Territory
• Cycas semota – native to Cape York Peninsula Queensland
• Cycas basaltica – native to Kimberley, Western Australia
• Cycas silvestris – native to Cape York Peninsula, Queensland
• Cycas arenicola – native to the East Alligator River basin, Northern Territory
• Cycas maconochiei (and below subspecies) – native to Northern Territory 
  • Cycas maconochiei ssp. maconochiei – native to Northern Territory
  • Cycas maconochiei ssp. lanata – native to Northern Territory
  • Cycas maconochiei ssp. viridis – native to Northern Territory
• Cycas armstrongii – native to Northern Territory
• Cycas calcicola – native to northwest Northern Territory
• Cycas megacarpa – native to Queensland
• Cycas cairnsiana – native to Newcastle, northern Queensland
• Cycas media – native to Queensland, Northern Territory & Western Australia
• Cycas rumphii – native to Christmas Island

Cycads in the Bowenia genus (part of the Zamiaceae family)

There are just two species in the limited genus Bowenia, and both are native to and only found growing natively in Queensland, Australia. Neither are true Cycads, but they are both commonly referred to as ‘cycad ferns’, and can be found growing in low-lying tropical forests, beneath marginal Acacias. 

• Bowenia serrulata (the ‘Byfield Fern’) – native to Byfield, Queensland
• Bowenia spectabilis – native to the lowland tropical forests of Queensland

Cycads in the Lepidozamia genus (part of the Zamiaceae family)

Lepidozamia is another Australian native genus, with just two species to its name. Both species are cycads, and have distinctly waxy leaves that are clearly distinct from any other genus grouped as Cycads.

Both are native to rainforest climates and have very apparent scale-like structures leading from the stem to their leaves.

• Lepidozamia hopei – native to northern Queensland
• Lepidozamia peroffskyana – native to southeastern Queensland and northeastern New South Wales

Cycads in the Macrozamia genus (part of the Zamiaceae family)

There are 41 species in the genus Macrozamia, and each one is native to Australia and Australia alone. One species, Macrozamia denisonii, is a synonym for Lepidozamia peroffskyana, potentially bringing the list to 42.

The native range of Macrozamia varies but tends to be dry subtropical or tropical forests, with most found growing wild in limited pockets of Queensland.

• Macrozamia cardiacensis – native to southeast Queensland
• Macrozamia communis – native to the east and south coast of New South Wales, and inland near the Mudgee district
• Macrozamia concinna – native to New South Wales
• Macrozamia conferta – native to southeast Queensland
• Macrozamia cranei – native to southeast Queensland
• Macrozamia crassifolia – native to southeast Queensland
• Macrozamia diplomera – native to New South Wales
• Macrozamia douglasii – native to southeast Queensland
• Macrozamia dyeri – native to the southern coast of Western Australia
• Macrozamia elegans – native to the Blue Mountains, New South Wales
• Macrozamia fawcettii – native to New South Wales
• Macrozamia fearnsidei – native to southeast Queensland
• Macrozamia flexuosa – native to New South Wales
• Macrozamia fraseri – native to the Swan Coastal Plain & Geraldton Sandplains, southwestern Western Australia
• Macrozamia glaucophylla – native to New South Wales
• Macrozamia heteromera – native to northwestern New South Wales
• Macrozamia humilis – native to Inverell, New South Wales
• Macrozamia johnsonii – native to New South Wales
• Macrozamia lomandroides – native to the tropical and subtropical dry forests of southeast Queensland
• Macrozamia longispina – native to southeast Queensland
• Macrozamia lucida – native to southeast Queensland
• Macrozamia macdonnellii – native to the Macdonnell Ranges, Northern Territory
• Macrozamia machinii – native to Inglewood, Queensland
• Macrozamia macleayi – native to Queensland
• Macrozamia miquelii – native to southeast and central Queensland, New South Wales, and Eastern Australia
• Macrozamia montana – native to New South Wales
• Macrozamia moorei – native to southeast and central Queensland
• Macrozamia mountperriensis – native to Mount Perry in southeast Queensland
• Macrozamia occidua – native to the dry forests of southeast Queensland
• Macrozamia parcifolia – native to southeast Queensland
• Macrozamia pauli-guilielmi – native to southeast Queensland, northeast New South Wales
• Macrozamia platyrhachis – native to southeast Queensland
• Macrozamia plurinervia – native to southeast Queensland and northeast New South Wales
• Macrozamia polymorpha – native to New South Wales
• Macrozamia reducta – native to New South Wales
• Macrozamia riedlei – native to southwestern Western Australia
• Macrozamia secunda – native to New South Wales
• Macrozamia serpentina – native to southeast Queensland
• Macrozamia spiralis – native to New South Wales
• Macrozamia stenomera – native to New South Wales
• Macrozamia viridis – native to southeast Queensland

How to Grow Cycads in Australia

Nearly all cycad species prefer warm but moist climates in full sun, but there are a few, particularly low-growing varieties, that grow well through droughts, or even in shade. 

To factor in the difference in growing conditions, we’ve stuck to the most general treatment of cycads, but for specific species, see our notes above against some of the most popular varieties.

Ideal Conditions for Growing Cycads Outdoors

Cycads are large plants, so if you do decide to grow one as a houseplant, eventually it will have to make its way outdoors. If you live in part of Australia where it’s ok to plant young cycads outside (tropical or subtropical regions), I would strongly advise planting them straight outdoors from day one.

How and Where to Plant Cycads Outdoors

Cycads like full sun, but can cope in part shade. Their roots aren’t invasive, which means they can be planted pretty close to permanent structures, but do try to factor in their eventual spread to make the most of their beautiful canopy. 

Cycad roots are fleshy and grow downwards and laterally in fairly equal measure, so when you do come to plant them, make sure the planting hole is twice the width, and twice the depth of the pot they are already in.

This will aid drainage, and help their roots to establish. Before planting, tease any winding roots away from the root ball, and gently rub over any fibrous roots to encourage new lateral growth. 

Soil and Drainage

Cycads aren’t picky when it comes to pH or nutrient levels, and are very well adapted to grow on poor or competitive soil, however, it is important that their soil is well drained, so water is never sitting around the base of the plant. 

Prepare sandy soils by adding some organic compost to enrich the soil, and provide better purchase. For clay soils mix in plenty of grit, vermiculite, or sand to improve drainage.

If your soil is completely depleted and void of any nutrients add a dry, granular fertiliser after planting for slow-release nutrients over the first season.

Light and Temperature

Cycads can cope with light shade, but need bright conditions, and should ideally be planted in full sun with around 6-8 hours of direct light per day. In cooler parts of Australia, with higher rainfall, aim for more exposed spots, with plenty of direct light.

For warmer parts of the country with droughts expected through summer, plant cycads with some light afternoon shade.

Temperature is probably the most important consideration for cycads, and it’s crucial to choose the right variety. Most cycads will survive temperatures down to -5°C, but when it drops below 15°C they begin to lose their leaves and should be treated as deciduous, rather than evergreen.

In cooler parts of the country with prolonged periods below 10°C, it’s worth bringing cycads inside to avoid overly stressing the plant.

Watering Cycads

Cycads need good drainage. Many species are actually happy to grow in almost arid conditions, with very minimal rainfall so preparing well-drained soil and forgoing any water or mulch through winter is essential.

How to Grow Cycads Indoors

Cycads, particularly smaller species like the Sago Palm (Cycas revoluta) grow well indoors and benefit from more controlled temperatures. While many species of cycad are too large to grow indoors there are tons of prehistoric species which are perfect for containers.

Choose a container that is about 2” wider than the roots, and about twice the depth of the current root ball. This allows for downward root growth, which will help to prevent root rots, and also make more of a feature of the trunk.

Fill the container with a free-draining potting mix that’s still capable of holding some water (Cactus potting mixes are ideal), and do not firm your plant in, let the water do this for you to prevent compaction and encourage faster root development.

Guide to Propagating Cycads

By far the easiest way to propagate cycads is from seed, but that requires something that can be pretty hard to come by, and a lot of waiting; seeds. If you want to get ahead and try to duplicate your cycads right now, taking cuttings, or replanting pups is slow but rewarding.

How to Propagate Cycads from Seeds

If you can get hold of cycad seeds, they are reliable to germinate and require very little care. The first thing you’ll notice is the size of the seeds; they’re huge! After that, there’s very little else you need to do to prepare them.

Simply place them on the surface of a coir potting mix, or compost mixed with at least 50% perlite, in a standard seed tray, and keep them moist. Position the tray in bright, warm conditions, away from direct afternoon sun. 

After about a month, you’ll have new shoots from each seed, and when they get large enough to handle, with good roots, it’s time to pot on. Gently prize each seed from the tray, keeping the roots intact, and ideally, a small amount of compost with it. 

Plant it into a similar potting mix, in an individual pot, about twice the width and depth of the seed. Bury the seed so the top is just poking out the soil, and water it well. Leave it in a bright position, somewhere warm, and care for it as you would a mature plant.

Propagating Cycads from Cuttings

Cycad cuttings are tricky, and should only be taken from mature plants that can handle the removal of old buds. They also take a while to show signs of life.

To take a cycad cutting, you will need:

• A mature cycad
• Sandy potting mix (50% sand, 50% spent compost)
• Seed tray
• A sharp knife or curved cutting knife
• Rooting hormone - indole-3-butyric acid (IBA) based hormones are best

To take cycad cuttings:

1. Start by preparing your container.
2. Fill a seed tray with 50% sand and 50% spent compost, or any inert potting medium (composted coir works).
3. Identify an old bud on the trunk (where leaves used to be).
4. These buds are packed with hormones and can be coaxed into developing their own roots.
5. Carefully insert a knife underneath the bud, and cut away a tiny section at the base so you’re left with an intact bud and a small section of its base.
6. Dip the end into the rooting hormone, and then place it into the sandy potting mix.
7. Water the surface well, and then leave it somewhere warm and bright but away from any direct sunlight.
8. After 2-3 months there should be some signs of life beginning to appear.
9. After that, you can start gradually increasing light exposure, and working towards treating each cutting as an individual plant once it develops its true leaves.

Cycad Propagation from Pups

I’ve never been lucky enough to have my cycads produce pups, but it is possible and even common in some climates. If you see tiny cycads popping up around your original plant, it’s well worth teasing them out of the soil and cutting away a section of root to go with them.

The process is simple, and as long as you take the pup, and its accompanying root section, you can pot it straight into a well-drained potting medium to create new plants instantly.

Caring for Cycads

Cycads are heavy nitrogen feeders while they are young. Once they establish in a container or in the ground, they reduce their nutrient needs and care becomes much less dutiful. Nearly all of our cycad care tips are based around this single need for nitrogen while young.

Mulching Cycads

One of the most readily available mulches in most gardens is grass clippings. Grass clippings break down quickly and have easily available nitrogen for soil bacteria, worms, beetles, and other insects to break down.

In spring, when the weather begins to warm up, apply a liberal layer of grass clippings, leaving an inch of free space not touching the trunk. Avoid using flowering grass, or grass that has gone to seed as these can cause turf to grow around the base of the cycad, which is both an extra chore to manage, and competition for young plants.

What Fertiliser to Use 

For indoor cycads, any balanced houseplant feed will do the job, but aim for something with a touch more nitrogen (check for NPK numbers of the bottle, usually labelled as 10-10-10 or similar, where the first number indicates nitrogen percentage).

Pruning and Repotting Cycads

Cycads are evergreen so require no ongoing pruning. Once established, it is possible to create multi-stemmed cycads, but they will often suffer from stress as each trunk will instinctively try to create a full-sized canopy, while relying on a single root ball, so I wouldn’t personally recommend it.

If your cycads are in containers, they rarely need repotting, but when their trunks grow to within 1 inch of the walls of their container, it’s worth giving them a little bit of extra space.

Cycads Pests and Diseases

In truth, there are so few truly damaging cycad pests that it’s barely worth mentioning. Remember, these plants have survived ice ages and mass global warming events.

However, like all plants grown indoors, there is a chance of scale, mealy bug, and aphids developing due to a lack of other options. If you notice them, simply spray them off, or wipe the leaves clean with rubbing alcohol (rinse after ten minutes to stop foliage drying out).

Outdoor cycads do have one common foe; the cycad moth. The cycad moth, which is actually a dull blue butterfly, lays eggs amongst newly developing foliage.

Its caterpillars proceed to feed on the young, softer foliage, causing yellow or dropping leaves as summer goes on. Remove these leaves, and check for signs of caterpillars.

Again, it takes a lot to kill a cycad, but root rot is a particularly common problem. We mentioned earlier that drainage was key, and we weren’t kidding. Poorly drained cycads, despite their overall resilience, are incredibly susceptible to root rot for nearly all common root funguses.

If you notice dry-looking foliage paired with damp soil, root rot is the most likely cause. Stopping watering for a few weeks might help the problem to clear up, but if not, dig up the plant, trim out any damaged roots, and dead foliage, and re-pot the whole thing, with rinsed roots, into new soil.

Cycads Frequently Asked Questions

Why are cycads so expensive?

Cycads are under threat of extinction in the wild due to habitat loss, and over-harvesting for horticultural trades. They have very little use for food or any human resource, so their harvesting is entirely down to the over-exuberance of plant explorers.

Today, this means that all cycads are grown from cultivated seeds, and the market is strictly regulated.

Can you take wild cycad seeds for propagation?

You should never take cycad seeds, cuttings, or plants from the wild. They are under threat of extinction, and should never be taken out of their natural habitat.

Seeds should be allowed to fall naturally where they have a greater chance to develop into mature plants alongside their parents, sharing nutrients, nitrogen, and carbon through root networks in the soil.

Are cycads illegal?

While harvesting wild cycads is illegal, there are dozens of online sites and garden centres that sell responsibly grown cycads, cultivated from domestic or farmed plants. These plants are completely legal to purchase and care for.

Are cycads toxic?

All parts of cycads are toxic to humans and most animals. Their seeds cause gastrointestinal cramps, nausea, and vomiting. If consumed in excess they are known to cause liver damage and even death.